The Guide To Finding Your C6 ZR1, Z06 or Grand Sport Corvette

How do I find the car I'm looking for?
Finding that perfect [to you] C6 Grand Sport, Z06 or ZR1 Corvette of your dreams can seem like an arduous, daunting and impossible task. Let's face the facts, these cars are becoming more and more difficult to find with lower miles, in pristine shape. And when you do find them, they want top dollar. Especially for rare colors like Inferno Orange, Atomic Orange, Daytona Sunset Orange, Supersonic Blue, Jetstream Blue, Nice Race Blue and my personal favorite LeMans Blue. 

If you like black, white, red, silver and that awful yellow...you can find them all day long. But those other colors are what prompted me to write this and share it with those of you hoping to follow in my footsteps some day soon. 

Each and everyone one of us will have different criteria we are looking for. Some things are deal breakers to us. Others are not. Our budgets will dictate a lot of that criteria.

For me, under 40,000 miles, stock LS7, no nitrous, superchargers or turbos. No racing stripes. Not more than 2 owners. I would have considered an engine with the heads done but I didn't want a big cam or aftermarket intake and not have the red factory engine covers. I wanted Inferno Orange (to match my 2017 Tacoma), Atomic Orange, LeMans Blue (my top choice), Jet Stream Blue or Cyber Grey. I would have accepted Victory Red or Monterey Red as a final resort.

Yellow was a definite no go for me. I can't stand yellow houses or cars. Yuck. Black is so beautiful but so difficult to keep clean and it attracts so much heat. My last two daily drivers have been silver, so I wasn't interested in that color but it does look very nice. White looks very clean all the time, but I'm just not a fan of it. I need my car to have more character.

Below is a list of all the sites I searched for my car:
https://www.vettefinders.com/
https://www.corvetteforum.com/corvette-classifieds/
https://www.corvettetrader.com/
https://www.corvsport.com/corvette-for-sale/
http://www.nationalcorvetteowners.com/classifieds/
https://usedcorvettesforsale.com/
https://corvettetraderclassifieds.com/
https://usedcorvettesforsale.com/search-corvettes-for-sale.html
https://www.cargurus.com/
https://www.usedcars.com/
https://www.kbb.com/cars-for-sale/all/by-owner
https://www.carsforsale.com/
https://corvettewarehouse.com/
http://www.autotrader.com
http://www.cars.com
https://www.autolist.com/
https://www.carfax.com/cars-for-sale 

Morrison Motors
https://www.facebook.com/share/15fhBGCWSvT/?mibextid=wwXIfr

Fast Lane Auto Sales
https://www.facebook.com/share/1Cmy6CUYDU/?mibextid=wwXIfr

Corvette World of Dallas
https://www.facebook.com/share/17JkKbPqmw/?mibextid=wwXIfr

Texas Hot Rides
https://www.facebook.com/TexasHotRides

Facebook Marketplace
Corvette Clubs & Corvette Classified Groups on Facebook
Craigslist
Offer Up App
And word of mouth

Watch this Ultimate C6 Corvette Buyer's Guide.

 Used Vehicle Inspection Checklist for the C6 Corvette 

 1.) Ask the vehicle be started with the COLD START PROCEDURE in your presence BEFORE having it moved outside in the best light possible. Fluorescent lighting can make it hard to see things in the paint and under the hood. A cold start is it's been shut off and cooled completely down for at least an hour maybe two. This gives you the opportunity to hear any squealing belts, knocking rods, other knocking sounds, tapping or banging that will alert you to any potential problems. (Special thanks to Hashem Wafa in the C6 Corvette 05-13 Official FB Group for the cold start tip!)

2.) Turn on the headlights, foglights and emergency flashers. Approach the vehicle from the front and do a general walkaround. You are looking for the obvious. Leaking fluids, flat tires, broken windows, leaning to one side or the other, the front end too low or high. Do all the lights work? Check the high beams, low beams, flashers, then signals, marker lights, taillights, reverse lights, brake lights and license plate lights. 

3.) Start back at the front again and inspect the hood and front fenders and bumper. Do the hood and fender lines all match up? Check for blemishes, rock chips, scratches, gouges, mismatched paint, paint runs, paint cracking, bubbles, dents, hail damage, impacts, rust and corrosion. 

4.) Inspect the windshield. Any cracks, rock chips, scratches? Check the window gaskets for rotting, dry rot and falling apart. Any rust runs (which is a sign of a failing windshield gasket)? Check the condition of the wipers. 

5.) Pop the hood and push it all the way up. Inspect the hood struts and the engine bay. Is the engine clean? Is everything there? Are the engine covers that say LS3 or LS7 present? Check for leaks, drips and runs. Check the fluid levels. Is the brake fluid clear and full? Clutch reservoir full and clear or low and dirty? Check the condition of the serpentine belts. Check the oil levels and coolant levels. If you see a milky substance in the coolant, this is indicative of head gasket or engine problems. Walk away from the car. Inspect the wiring harness and wire loom. On a cared for low mileage car, the engine harness should be clean, mostly free of grease, the black shrink wrap should be intact and undisturbed, no splices, fading or unraveled tape. Inspect the radiator hoses. Inspect the condition of the hoodliner. Use a flashlight to inspect the firewall for impacts, rust, corrosion and misalignment. Start the engine and listen for tapping, knocking, missing, vacuum leaks and any other abnormal noises. Turn on both the heater and a/c varying the interior fan speeds and see if the lights dim or engine struggles or idles roughly. Is the belt running smoothly and with no squealing or fraying? Check the battery for corrosion or leaks and check the connections for corroded ring terminals, exposed wires and frayed ends. Some general oxidization on the ring terminals and battery terminals is ok and expected. You can clean those up with sandpaper when you get home. Check the paint inside the engine bay. It should typically have paint with a dull finish. Check for overspray and unpainted, unmatched surfaces and colors (primer black or grey on one side and the color code of the car on another). This often indicates a wrecked car or at least a damaged fender that was replaced. Is that a deal breaker? It would be for me. But that's up to you. Check the radiator support for being straight, painted and not leaning or dipping to one side. Make sure the radiator fan cycles on and off while the engine is running and the hood is open. Make sure you don't hear any weird pulley noises. Just a tip, if the Harmonic Balancer hasn't been replaced already, it should be on your post purchase to do list after you get it home. The factory one tends to develop a wobble. An ATI 918620 Harmonic Balancer is high quality and worth the coin. Once you're satisfied, close the hood and let's move on. When you close the hood gently pull down on it from the middle. Then walk to the passenger side and gently push down until it latches. Then go to the driver side and do the same with that side. You can also turn off the engine. 

6.) Let's go to the driver door. Check the fender liners for condition and alignment. Examine how the door aligns with the fenders. Are the gaps equal? Is everything in alignment. Do the lines match up? Inspect the hinges. Inspect the door jambs on both sides of the door at the front fender and rear quarter fender. Does the door open and close properly with ease? Inspect the window glass on the driver door Is there any rust, corrosion or bubbling along the door jambs and bottom door sills and the door? Inspect the paint closely. Look at it in different angles. Check for paint runs, scratches, gouges, discolored paint, dents, dings and hail damage Check the door lip where the driver door meets the rear quarter panel. This area is prone to cracking. I noticed the paint on mine was cracked several days after I got home. Sigh. But it is a used car with 36,000 miles on it. It's not a brand new car. Also check the VIN sticker and ensure it matches the stamped VIN plate on the dash in the front left corner by the windshield. Since it was over 5 days after I purchased the car when I discovered it, I'm not saying anything to the dealership. 

7.) Let's go to the driver rear quarter panel. You're looking for the same imperfections as in Step 6. Make sure to carefully examine the lower rocker panels in front of the tires. Mine have pitting and light rock chips. I've been told this is normal due to the tires kicking up rocks when accelerating and driving. Check the fender liners for proper installation. 8.) Proceed to the Rear hatch/decklid. Inspect the left side lip, right side lip and rear lip of the decklid. I found a crack on mine on the rear left side of the decklid. The dealership is making that right and taking care of it. I'm satisfied with their proposal but I'll keep those terms to myself. Inspect the rear glass. 

9.) Check the rear bumper for alignment, mismatched paint (darker or lighter than the rest of the car), scratches, gouges, etc. check the diffuser and exhaust tips. 

10.) Let's go to the passenger side rear quarter panel. You're looking for the same imperfections as in Step 7. 

11.) Repeat Step 6 for the passenger door. 

12.) Inspect the roof. 

13.) Inspect the interior. Do the seats go forward and backward easily? Do the seat controls and lumbar adjustments all work? Do the seat heaters work? Does the interior lighting work? A/C? Heat? Wipers? Horn? Radio? Light switches? Turn signal indicators? Power mirrors and windows? Glove box and center console open and close easily? Rips, tears or spills? Steering wheel play loose? It should be firm and crisp. Start the car and ensure the gauges all work. Are there any check engine lights on? Any warning indicators or service engine soon lights? Check the oil pressure readout and battery voltage. Inspect the interior door panels and headliner. Ensure the seatbelts all fasten properly. 

14.) Check all the tires for tread life and dry rot, uneven wear, sidewall integrity issues, holes and low air pressure.  

15.)Test drive. Check for abnormalities, weird sounds, vibration, steering issues, poor quality ride suspension and anything malfunctioning. Alternate speeds and cruise along normally and then get on the throttle a little bit. Do you hear any weird noises? Find a parking lot with a wide open area, turn the car in a tight circle clockwise and listen for any popping noises in the front steering. Now go counterclockwise. It should be smooth with no popping or hopping or binding of the steering. Is the clutch stiff? or soft? Do you smell any burning from the pressure plate? How does the shifter feel? (An MGW short throw shifter will be a bit notchy but this is normal). Test the brakes. Does the pedal go all the way to the floor? Does the car stop easily and firmly? Or does it struggle to slow down or stop? 

16.) I highly recommend having a GM Tech do an inspection also known as a PPI (Pre-Purchase Inspection). Check the codes and see if the ECU history shows any type of codes that have popped in the past. Any current codes? Have them put it on a rack and lift it up and let you look at the undercarriage for corrosion, rust, bent suspension parts, kinked, pinched, welded or repaired frame rails. Another thing you want the GM Tech to do is look at the mileage on the car's ECU and compare it to the odometer readout. Make sure a charging system test is done on the battery, alternator and starter. The Inspection is the last step you should do before you decide to buy the car or not. If possible have an engine compression test done and a leakdown test done. This will tell you the overall health of the engine. Having it done at a dealership can cost $1,000. But a local auto repair shop should be able to do it for substantially less. It's worth it to have the peace of mind for your purchase. Because once you take delivery...it is yours. Outside of a few laws in some states which vary, you will have no recourse. Shop around and maybe find a 3rd party extended warranty. 

17.) If you are driving the car home and it's more than 100 miles and the heads have not been fixed, I would recommend you take it easy and exercise restraint. Keep the rpm's under 2500. Nice, easy, steady and gradual acceleration to highway speed and set your cruise control at 5-6 mph over the speed limit. Avoid dropping the hammer and avoid aggressive power shifting (up or down) and stomping on the accelerator. Avoid high speed bursts. Check your oil at every fuel stop. Your top priority is to get the car home safely. Figure out your plan of action with the heads and get it to the shop. Don't forget to swap out that Harmonic Balancer too. Then get it tuned.

18.) If you are having the car shipped, make sure to use a CLOSED CAR TRAILER. Do not let some shipping company put your Corvette on an open air trailer and haul it cross country. Rocks, pebbles and debris are likely to hit your car while in transit. Don't do it. Make sure you tell them in writing and verbally and that that language "Closed Car Trailer" is on the agreement paperwork. Also have them send pics of the car being loaded into an enclosed car trailer. 

19.) If you are taking a truck and trailer of your own to pick up the vehicle, this is probably your best bet. Take 6 pieces of 2x6 to get it up the ramps. These cars are super low and they will scrape. The 2x6's help. 

20.) Get some driveway ramps to help get your Corvette into the driveway without scraping. I was able to get mine in by going in at a 30° angle and I went very slowly. Wal-Mart sells a pair for $32. 

https://www.walmart.com/ip/17755213689?sid=7C58258B-E7C2-47DD-8C64-6C43ACB79621

20.) Now that you and the car are home, buy a car cover with a fleece lining to protect that paint. Then purchase a plastic car cover with an elastic band bottom to fit over the other car cover. The plastic cover keeps dust and other things off the car cover with the fleece lining. Keeping dust and other particles off the car when it is in the garage will keep the paint nice for years to come and reduce how often you have to wash it and detail it. 

In Closing & With Perspective
Keep this in mind. You are buying a USED CAR. Unless it's never been driven and stored in a climate controlled storage facility and wrapped in plastic...it will NEVER be perfect or free of blemishes. Before you go into this process, you need to KNOW what you can and will accept and what you can't. Some of you will spend MONTHS to a YEAR AND A HALF waiting for the right car. 

Some of you will find one with a few days to a few weeks. My wait was about a month. I guess I got lucky and some very good timing. 

All I can say is if you aren't patient you will only find disappointment. The wait is worth it in the end. Do NOT settle. 

How do you tell if the heads have been done?
If you're considering buying one of these cars and the salesman at the dealership doesn't know if the heads have been fixed, have him take pictures of the passenger side heads. If the head bolts are silver, they are GM Factory spec head bolts and the heads are not done. If they are black and say ARP on the top of them, it is very likely your heads are fixed. You can also look for any cnc engravings on the front end of the heads. If they are factory heads, look on the passenger side heads on the top left side. There will be an engraved number. GMXXXXXXXX (GM + 8 numbers).

C6 Grand Sport vs C6Z06 vs C6 ZR1
Many buyers get scared off from the Z06 because of the heads and valve issues. Guess what? The ZR1's have them too. Well the C6 Grand Sport has its issues too. The rocker needle bearings are suspect in the heads. So research that issue. But otherwise that engine is bulletproof and blower friendly. 

In 2015 I settled for a 2004 Ford Mach 1. I should have bought the Cobra. I could have afforded the Cobra. I never came to love the Mach 1. It was fun, I "liked it" but I never loved it. Don't settle.

The C6 GS has a 6.2 LS3 engine. It's nothing compared to the 7.0 LS7 427 cubic inch engine. That power is raw. I had to have the 427. I wanted the coveted Z06 badge and the performance package. I didn't settle this time and I have zero regrets. 

If you're set on a C6 Z06, then find one with heads already done or budget some extra cash to do the heads, fluids (oil/coolant) and head gaskets plus a tune and go find your car. Don't let these issues scare you off. 

I will at some point create a C6 Corvette Specific Inspection Form that you can use to check off things as you go or give to whomever does your Inspection. 

I'm sure I've forgotten something on here. So if you see something I missed, leave a reply in the comments below and I'll edit the posting and give you credit at the bottom (below here).

Special thanks to Hashem Wafa (Pre-Purpose Inspection and Cold Start Tips) and Todd Worley (Texas Hot Rides recommendation) for their contributions to this write up.